Vani Vats’ latest collection Ziya is a fabulous cocktail couture edit that explores contemporary occasion dressing through sculpted silhouettes, fluid drapes, and modern separates alongside classic Indian occasion wear. The colour palette moves between soft, luminous shades like nude, ash pink, and powder blue, and deeper evening tones, including black and ink blue. Surface ornamentation is central to the collection, with intricate hand-applied cutdana embroidery, liquid glitter work, crystal embellishments and their signature cascading tassels. Alongside lehengas and draped silhouettes, Vani has introduced bandeau bustiers paired with high-waisted flared trousers and statement dupattas, offering a fresh interpretation of cocktail couture. The designer takes us through the same.
What’s the idea behind the collection?
The idea behind Ziya was to celebrate the cocktail hour as the defining moment of an occasion rather than simply the event before the wedding festivities. Modern women are looking for occasion wear that feels glamorous yet contemporary, powerful yet effortless. Every garment has been designed to interact beautifully with movement and light. We wanted to create couture that feels cinematic with pieces that shimmer subtly under evening lights, photograph beautifully, and allow the wearer to feel confident without relying on excessive embellishment.
How is it different from your previous collections?
Ziya takes a more contemporary approach to occasion dressing. We’ve experimented with stronger tailoring, cleaner lines and fusion silhouettes that appeal to women who want versatility without compromising on couture. Compared to our earlier collections, Ziya is more architectural in its construction and places greater emphasis on movement. It also introduces separates that can be styled beyond a single occasion.
What’s working this summer in ethnic and fusion fashion?
This summer, we’re seeing a shift towards lighter, more fluid occasion wear. Clients are gravitating towards breathable fabrics, softer colour palettes and silhouettes that feel easy. Fusion dressing continues to evolve, with bustiers, corsets, tailored trousers and capes being paired with traditional embroidery. There’s also a growing preference for versatile pieces that can be styled differently across occasions instead of garments designed for a single wear. Modern luxury today is about effortless elegance.
What are the summer wardrobe must-haves?
A lightweight embroidered sari in an understated tone, a statement cocktail lehenga, a contemporary co-ord or bustier-and-trouser set, an embellished dupatta, and timeless jewellery pieces.
What inspires you?
I’m inspired by women more than trends. Every collection begins with understanding how women want to feel rather than simply how they want to look. Architecture, travel, art and traditional Indian craftsmanship all influence my work, but the biggest inspiration comes from observing how women are redefining celebration today.