Vvani Vats, the Delhi-based designer and founder of the luxury Indian ethnic wear label Vvani by Vani Vats, has launched her Saanjh Festive Couture ’26 edit that translates the poetry of dusk into couture. Her design philosophy centres on geometric glam, a signature style that fuses intricate, traditional Indian handcraft with crisp, contemporary silhouettes. True to the brand’s philosophy, the collection is rooted in Indian craftsmanship yet unapologetically modern in spirit. Saanjh captures the transition from day to night through sharp detailing, sculpted embellishments, and a palette that glows after dark.
It features intricate hand-cut mirror work, precision cutdana embroidery, and shimmering crystals that echo the soft glow of an evening sky. Cascading tassels add movement and drama, bringing a sense of rhythm and fluidity to every silhouette.
We speak to Vvani to get into the details of this breathtaking collection, which is a work of art showcasing fine Indian craftsmanship while reflecting modern sensibilities.
What does Saanjh mean to you, and why did twilight inspire this collection?
Twilight carries a quiet intensity. It doesn’t scream for attention, but you feel it. That’s the energy I wanted to capture
Saanjh is deeply emotional for me. It represents that in-between moment, not day, not night, where everything softens and yet becomes more powerful. Twilight carries a quiet intensity. It doesn’t scream for attention, but you feel it. That’s the energy I wanted to capture. As a designer, I’m constantly drawn to transitions, heritage meeting modernity, and softness meeting structure, and twilight felt like the perfect metaphor for that balance.
How is this collection different from your earlier edits, and what Indian craftsmanship is highlighted?
With Saanjh, we’ve leaned into restraint. Earlier collections had a certain romantic softness; this edit is sharper, more deliberate. The craftsmanship remains rooted in Indian techniques—intricate mirror work, fine cutdana, and detailed hand embroidery—but is executed with more precision and negative space. Instead of overwhelming surfaces, we’ve allowed embellishment to breathe. That tension between detail and minimalism defines this collection.
Have you experimented with silhouettes? Does that mirror 2026 trends?
Yes, definitely. While our core remains Indian silhouettes, we’ve introduced more structured blouses, sharper tailoring, fluid capes, and cleaner lehenga lines. There’s a movement toward ease and versatility in 2026, with women wanting couture that feels powerful but not restrictive. The silhouettes reflect that shift: lighter, more architectural, yet still feminine.
The palette moves through deep blues, teals, and metallic accents. How did you arrive at these colours?
Twilight naturally guided the palette. Deep teal and midnight blue evoke that fading sky, while silver and copper accents mimic the last glimmers of light. I wanted colours that feel regal yet understated tones that glow rather than shine loudly. They photograph beautifully, but more importantly, they flatter across occasions and moods, making them ideal for both formal events and casual gatherings, which reflect the essence of quiet luxury.
What does quiet luxury mean to you?
For me, quiet luxury is about intention. It’s about quality; you can feel it without overt branding or excess. In Saanjh, it’s the finesse of the embroidery, the finishing on the inside seams, the balance of shine and matte textures. Nothing is overpowering; everything is considered. The power lies in the craftsmanship, not in spectacle.
What kind of moments do you imagine Saanjh being worn for?
Evening weddings, cocktail receptions, intimate celebrations, moments where presence matters. I imagine a woman walking into a space and being remembered not because she was loud, but because she carried herself with confidence. Saanjh is designed for those in-between hours when elegance feels most natural.
Prices start at Rs 85,000. Available online.
—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com
@ManuVipin
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