Royal dressing has always been about spectacle, but Vvani Vats is interested in what happens when that spectacle meets the woman of today. With Modern Maharanis: The New Folklore 2026, the designer looks to the architecture of royal India, taking cues from the carved arches and latticework of the jharokha and the jewel-like geometry of jadau. Hand-cut silk, organza, mirrors, cutdana, and zari come together in sharply worked silhouettes that feel less like costume and more like a new kind of occasion dressing. It is a collection where centuries-old craft meets movement, individuality and a distinctly contemporary idea of grandeur.
Why Is Jadau the Key Inspiration for Modern Maharanis?
We speak to the Delhi-based designer about reimagining Indian royalty, the enduring appeal of jadau and the craft behind her latest couture collection.
What inspired you to create Modern Maharanis?
Modern Maharanis redefines imperial grandeur for the contemporary era. Royalty today isn’t about rigid rules or gilded walls; it is about the freedom of self-expression and owning your individuality. We envisioned this collection for the modern woman who honours her roots while fearlessly leading her own narrative.
Why did you choose jadau as the key inspiration for the collection?
Jadau embodies structural balance, patience, and luminous light. Its signature technique of embedding precious stones into gold seamlessly mirrors our couture philosophy. We translated that jewel-like depth and geometry into textiles, turning fluid fabrics into richly studded, radiant canvases.
How did the jharokha influence the designs and overall aesthetic?
The royal jharokha is both an architectural marvel and a symbol of sovereign grace. The jharokha was our direct muse for the signature cut-work seen across this collection. We looked at the intricate stone carvings, scalloped arches, and lattice windows of imperial palaces and translated that exact architecture into fabric.
Your signature cut-work is prominent in this collection. How did you develop and reinterpret it this time?
We gave our cut-work an architectural edge. Rather than classic florals, our karigars hand-carve precise jharokha archways directly into pure silk. Layered with fine zari, mirrors, and fluid cutdana, the technique mimics the luminous illusion of stained glass in motion.
How long does it take to create some of these intricate pieces?
This level of craft cannot be rushed. A single signature ensemble takes between 800 and 1,200 hours of unhurried artisan devotion—from meticulous stencil cutting to multi-layered hand embroidery.
How did you make traditional Indian craftsmanship feel contemporary and relevant for today?
By refining how traditional techniques interact with modern silhouettes. Centuries-old metallic zari and hand-set mirror arts were re-engineered with clean, geometric precision and fluid drape. Instead of conventional motifs, the embroidery is placed intentionally to flatter contemporary lines—offering all the drama and majesty of imperial couture with a fresh, directional aesthetic.
What do you think today’s woman looks for in occasion wear?
Effortless movement, individuality, and emotional connection. Today’s bride wants an ensemble that lets her celebrate freely rather than weighing her down. She seeks meaningful, versatile heirlooms over fleeting trends.
How has your idea of luxury evolved over the years?
Luxury has shifted from visible excess to intentionality. True luxury lives in the human touch, unhurried time, and the emotional resonance of knowing an artisan spent weeks perfecting a single piece. It is quiet confidence over loud ornamentation.
What makes Modern Maharanis different from your earlier collections?
It is sharper, bolder, and more architectural. While our earlier edits leaned into soft romance, Modern Maharanis embraces negative space, geometric royal arches, and mirrored highlights in a far more graphic, commanding way.
Rs 75,500 onwards. Available online.
—manuvipin@newindianexpress.com
@ManuVipin
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