Kolkata-based designer Shyam Sundar Basu’s label Raikishori Collection has unveiled its playful Durga Puja collection that’s vibrant and pays tribute to Kolkata’s answer to global fashion, Sabyasachi Mukherjee. Shyam Sundar takes us through the vibrant and colourful festive edit, Pujor Rajkahini.
Tell us about your new festive collection in detail.
Our new festive collection, Pujor Rajkahini, is inspired by Sabyasachi and is a tribute to him. He has been an idol and inspiration for me ever since I got interested in fashion.
For this Puja, we focused on royal and feminine fabrics. We have used pure chiffon, soft organza, mul cotton and raw silk. The base is mostly sheer and flowy, but the work is very heavy and ornate.
The colours are also inspired by Sabyasachi’s signature palette. It includes royal red, off-white and beige, mustard yellow, deep emerald green, and antique gold.
In terms of texture, this time the focus is on hand kardana and floral motif work. You will see big vintage floral embroidery, tiny kardana, zardozi and French knot work, which gives a 3D jewellery-like feel.
What’s special about this collection?
Two things are special. First, each sari has a rich vintage look and feel, but is lightweight. We have done heavy handwork on the lightest chiffon, so you get the grandeur without the weight. So, they are very wearable.
Second, it‘s fully handmade and every piece is slightly different from the other. We did not use any thick lining. The blouses have pure mul cotton lining and saris are in breathable pure chiffon and cotton. The back of the blouse is open and has jaali kardana work. You can wear it during pandal hopping and still be comfortable.
What is trending in Durga Puja fashion this year?
This year, Puja fashion is all about extensive work on light fabric. Kardana work is the biggest trend, while chiffon is back in vogue along with floral prints.
Classic red and white is forever, but this year mustard with a red border and off-white with gold work are very much in trend.
What are the Durga Puja wardrobe must-haves?
A red-and-white kardana sari for Ashtami anjali, a light chiffon floral sari for Saptami morning, a sharara or lehenga set for Navami night and a royal blouse with heavy back design that you can style with multiple saris.
Tell us about your upcoming collection.
Our next collection for Diwali and wed-ding season is called Rai Kishori-The Bridal Edit. It will feature lehengas, shararas and heavy bridal saris in velvet, raw silk and tissue. The colours will be deeper, mainly black, burgundy, midnight blue and royal purple.
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