Kanchipuram Idli is said to have originated from the temple town of Kanchipuram, where there have always been strong connections between food and worship. The idli is usually offered to Lord Vishnu as naivedyam in the Varadharaja Perumal Temple. After being offered, it is then distributed to devotees as prasadam. It is unique in its appearance and flavour.
The custom is linked to the madapalli of the temple, which means 'the holy kitchen' of the temple. Some references describe the origins of the recipe in association with ancient temple practices of the Vaishnava sect and also in the Vaikhanasa Agama, which is a Sanskrit tradition dictating religious practices.
One version of the origin of Kanchipuram Idli dates back to the time of the Pallavas, who ruled the region from the year 275 CE. This has resulted in the perception that the dish has been a part of offerings to the god for many centuries now.
What sets the idli apart is its making. The batter requires black urad dal, rough-ground rice, and curd. This is left overnight to ferment, after which spices such as methi, dry ginger, cumin, black pepper, curry leaves, and asafoetida are added. Ghee adds another layer of richness.
Kanchipuram Idli is generally steamed in a long, tubular, cane-made mould known as kudālai. Leaves known as Mantharai or sal leaves are used to line this mould. This is done to prevent the batter from seeping out of the mould. These leaves also provide a mild aroma to the idli. Traditionally, this mould was steam-cooked for three to four hours in a brass pan.
This results in a heavy, cylinder-shaped cake, which could almost be a foot in length. It is sliced up before serving, often with podi. In the temple, though, its meaning extends well beyond taste. Kanchipuram Idli remains tied to the ritual journey from sacred kitchen to deity and finally to devotee.
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