This café isn’t in a rush, and it doesn’t want you to be either. At Madras Kissaten, coffee is an unhurried ritual. The pour-over is slow and deliberate, almost meditative, with steam and scent as its only special effects. While most cafés hum with co-working chatter and clinking cups, this one moves in the opposite direction, inviting you to linger, sit with your thoughts and slow down, if only for a while.
Filmmaker-turned-café-founder Siddarth Gananathan is clearly not catering to the frappe crowd. His space is minimal, but not cold, a quiet, deliberate minimalism that makes you feel as if your coffee is about to tell you a story. And perhaps it will. He has experimented with beans from Palani, Chikmagalur and Coorg, eventually settling on nutty, darker roasts that whisper of Japan while still carrying the earthiness of south Indian soil.
The Bold is Madras Kissaten’s signature specialty coffee, a dark roast with nutty, chocolaty notes that Siddarth believes shines best as a pour-over. It has a stronger, more pronounced coffee flavour than a latte, designed for those who like to taste their brew without distractions.
There is no full food menu yet, and Siddarth isn’t rushing that either. A chonky, gooey cookie is currently in test mode (we approve), with brownies and possibly a cold brew on the way. No messy cakes, ever. Just good coffee and small, quiet joys.
“The temperature of the beverage also influences the flavour, and a touch of sugar gives it an extra kick,” Siddarth says. We tried the coffee with oat milk, and the caffeine doesn’t jangle your nerves. There’s a sly suggestion of chocolate, a decisive nod towards toast, and a mellow finish that makes you want to linger over the last sip.
The espresso, on the other hand, is unapologetic, strong, nutty and no-nonsense, delivering a clean jolt of energy. Then there’s Hojicha, a roasted green tea that feels like matcha’s gentler cousin. Low on caffeine but high on mood, it’s sweetly nutty, especially with oat milk. The matcha may not be the best in town, but it doesn’t disappoint either.
Meal for two: ₹400+. From 8 am to 8 pm. At Madras Kissaten.
Email: shivani@newindianexpress.com
X: @ShivaniIllakiya
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