Haitian pumpkin soup, traditionally eaten on January 1 to celebrate Haiti’s Independence Day Aliceba / Wikimedia Commons
Food

Why Haiti deserves a place on your culinary travel map

Discover the vibrant flavours of Haiti's culinary heritage, where tradition meets bold spices and rich history

Shivani Illakiya

Haitian food rewards anyone willing to look beyond the usual Caribbean holiday menu. The cooking is generous with herbs, chilli and citrus, with dishes that draw on Indigenous Taíno, West African, French and Spanish traditions. Haiti’s history has shaped what ends up on the table, but the food itself is reason enough to seek it out.

Get to know Haiti through its distinctive food culture

Start with griot, one of the country's best-known dishes. Pork is marinated with citrus and a seasoning blend called epis, then cooked and fried until the outside turns crisp while the meat stays tender. It is commonly served with pikliz, a sharp, spicy pickle made with shredded cabbage, carrots, vinegar and chilli. The acidity cuts through the richness of the pork, and a generous spoonful can transform the whole plate. Add bannann peze, green plantain slices that are flattened and fried twice, for a meal that covers crunch, heat and salt in every bite.

The seasoning deserves attention of its own. Epis is a fresh paste, often made with garlic, spring onions, parsley, thyme and peppers, though recipes vary between households. It forms the base of many Haitian dishes, seasoning meat, seafood, rice and stews. Rather than one signature spice dominating the food, it gives dishes a deeper, rounded flavour.

Haitian epis, a traditional Haitian seasoning base made with herbs, vegetables and spices

Rice is another staple, but diri ak djon djon is worth looking for in particular. Made with dried black mushrooms, the rice takes on a dark colour and an earthy, savoury aroma. The mushrooms are associated with northern Haiti, and the dish is often reserved for special occasions or family gatherings. It may not appear on every restaurant menu, so ask whether it is available before ordering.

For a taste of Haitian street food, look for pâté, flaky savoury pastries filled with spiced beef, chicken or salted fish, and akra, fritters made from grated malanga, a starchy root vegetable. Both make good snacks between meals, especially when you want to explore beyond restaurant dining.

Then there is soup joumou, a pumpkin-based soup traditionally eaten on January 1, Haiti's Independence Day. Made with squash, meat, pasta and vegetables, it is substantial enough to be a meal in itself. Its history gives it particular significance. During colonial rule, the soup was associated with the French slave-owning class and denied to enslaved Haitians. After Haiti won independence in 1804, eating it became an expression of freedom. UNESCO added the tradition to its Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2021. Families continue to prepare and share it at the start of each year.

Finish with kremas, a creamy drink usually made with coconut milk, condensed milk, spices and rum, especially popular during festive occasions.

Haitian food is not always easy to find outside the country and its diaspora communities. That makes seeking out a Haitian restaurant, bakery or food festival part of the pleasure of discovering it. Go hungry, ask what has been cooked that day, and make room for the pikliz.

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