Vietnom is a beautiful attempt at staying close to the roots of Vietnamese cooking. Cane and wood furniture, muted tones, and a compact 56-seater restaurant set inside the Kenilworth Hotel keep things warm and unfussy.
The brand, already present in cities like Mumbai and Delhi, has built a reputation for staying faithful to Vietnamese flavours. The Kolkata outpost carries that forward with a menu that leans heavily on fresh produce, balanced seasoning, and traditional techniques. A large part of that authenticity comes from ingredients sourced directly from Vietnam but also from the philosophy behind the cooking.
Chef Aakash Nakra, who travelled across Vietnam to study local cooking, brings that experience into the kitchen. His approach is simple: fresh ingredients, minimal storage, and food that is made and served with immediacy.
We began with the Prawns and raw papaya salad, which was sharp, slightly sweet due to the cherry compote, and layered with texture. The freshness of the prawns stood out, but what worked better was the interplay of raw mango, basil, and bird’s eye chilli. The Fresh vegetable summer rolls followed. The crunch of lettuce and pickled vegetables came through, but compared to the salad, this dish played it safe. It worked as a palate cleanser and not a standout.
The Vegetarian dim sum platter was more interesting. The cream cheese dumpling added richness, while the zucchini and glass noodle dumpling brought in a lighter, more delicate bite. The crystal dumpling held its own, but overall, the platter felt more about variety than depth. The dips were equally varied and held their own.
Then came the Pho, which anchors the menu. This vegetable version was comforting without being heavy. The broth was aromatic, with notes of anise, ginger, and cinnamon coming through clearly. The homemade rice noodles had the right bite, and the combination of tofu, variety of mushrooms, and herbs made it wholesome. It is easy to see why this remains a staple in Vietnam. The Turmeric fish, however, was the turning point. Cooked in coconut cream with dill and red onion, the river sole was soft and flavourful. The spices were pronounced, and the pairing with rice noodles worked well. If one dish mixed both comfort and character, it was this.
For dessert, the Pomelo mango stood out for its freshness. The citrusy pomelo, sweet mango pulp, and soft tapioca pearls came together well, while the vanilla ice cream added just enough indulgence. It was a clean finish to the meal.
Meal for two: INR 2,400++ (without alcohol)
Timing: 12 pm - 4 pm and 7 pm - 11.30 pm.
At Kenilworth Hotel 1&2, Little Russel Street.