By the time the monsoon winds down, all you really want is a warm plate of something comforting. Joy’s Kitchen in Kolkata knew exactly what to serve. Their September supper club, Monsoon Comforts, put galho, the Naga rice-and-pork one-pot, at the centre of the table and built an evening around it.
Joy’s Kitchen, run by Joyanti aka Joy, is a small Naga cloud kitchen that becomes a supper club twice a month. It feels less like going out to eat and more like being invited to someone’s table, with plenty of food talk, stories and a peek into the flavours behind Joy’s cooking.
We began with an iced Roselle tea: tart, ruby-hued and refreshing. It was a good palate-opener for what followed. Joy’s steamed chicken momo were soft and juicy, setting the tone for the evening.
Then came the Galho. Naga cooking rarely leans on excess, and this was comfort food in its purest form: pork, rice, and greens simmered together until soft and deeply savoury. What makes the meal special is how it’s served: with a spread of crispy, crunchy, spicy and fresh accompaniments meant to be mixed, matched and eaten your own way. A spoonful of galho with something crisp on the side, then another with something fiery, and no two bites are quite the same. We loved pairing it with their chilli garlic crisp.
Joy’s signature Dry bamboo shoot pork curry was the dish we loved the most. Fermented bamboo shoot’s tang went beautifully with the pork. It is an assertive flavour that rewards anyone willing to lean into it.
The homemade chutneys were where the heat lived. One, made with king chilli, was fierce and fruity, and the other, made with axone, was earthy. If you’re new to Naga flavours, start with a dab. If you’re not, you’ll be reaching for more.
Dessert was Black sticky rice paired with rabri, which was a clever closing move. The nutty, slightly chewy rice met the creamy, cardamom-scented rich rabri, cooling the palate after the chillies without ending the meal on a predictable note.
Meal for one: INR 1,000
Timings as per their bookings.
At Joy’s Kitchen, Dover Terrace.