Kashmir is for all seasons. Perhaps, because it understands emotions like no other place does. It will make your heart flutter with its scenic beauty; let you lay on the calming grass to know what ‘rest’ actually feels like; the mountains will lend you a shoulder to cry on while the clouds will gently hug you. Kashmir, hits different, especially if you are revisiting it. It keeps your memories safe while you go back to your life dictated by short attention spans. So, when you return, it slowly takes you back to the feelings you felt, the moments you lived; and if that makes you tear up, it will hold you. Trust us.
It’s been seven long years since we last visited Kashmir. But as soon as we landed, Kashmir began to reconnect the dots. It’s not surprising thus, that we met the friend (we were on a trip with the last time) soon after returning to Hyderabad. The Universe has its ways. Or, should we say, Kashmir.
Our phone stopped working when we were at the conveyer belt, something we weren’t prepared for. But we found the solution just a few steps away within the airport — a small shop with prepaid sim cards. We didn’t quite know at that point that we were going to be the ‘Hotspot sharer’ of this trip. We’ll come back to that, later.
Kashmir breathes humility, hospitality, humaneness. As we were escorted to our car by this gentleman, a representative from the Radisson Collection Hotel & Spa, Riverfront Srinagar, our first stop, we felt like we were returning to something familiar. That’s the beauty of this place.
At the hotel, we were welcomed not just with kind words but with an artiste playing this soothing song on santoor…Tum pass aaye, yun muskuraye… It was a sign — we were home.
Our spacious room overlooked the Dal Lake. Warm and inviting, with every nook telling a story, we were ready to listen in. We spend some time in the balcony of our room soaking in the view; but the luring bathtub was difficult to resist. So, we gave in.
Morning began with a call to be ready — we were going to Radisson Golf Resort Pahalgam. An hour or so later, when we reached the resort and witnessed its beauty, ‘Oh my! Is this even real!’ We relaxed at the in-house Restaurant 1936 alfresco area enjoying a meal shaped by fresh ingredients and regional influences. Soon enough, we checked into our cosy room where the sun rays fell on the chair near the window — a perfect setting for some chai and thoughts. We ordered in masala tea, sipped it by the window, staring at the mountains that glistened with the sun’s golden rays. Tumko dekha to yeh khayal aaya (instrumental) played outside. It was a sign. We were home.
The plan was to go to the Lidder Valley Golf Course, one of the most prominent golf destinations in Kashmir, that enjoys the nearby presence of the gurgling Lidder River. Dressed to tee, we headed to the golf course, where we not only tried our hands at teeing (yes, we did and were decent with the lines) but were equally mesmerised by the size and the scene. Mountains capped with snow mirroring in the little water bodies around, the grass greener than green could be, and the air — peace! We could spend the rest of the day here, but a bonfire awaited us back at the hotel.
Now dressed to party, we gathered at the open/garden space in the hotel, sipping, munching on starters, engaging in interesting conversations, as the bonfire kept us warm, and so did the company of some amazing fellow travellers (with who we shared our Hotspot) and the hotel staff ’s hospitality. We took our conversations to the restaurant inside for a lavish spread of Kashmiri specialities. They had us at Haak Saag! Simple, subtly flavoured, with nothing overpowering but love, it is what we didn’t know our taste buds had been craving. It’s more than a must-try!
The Betaab Valley it was, the next day. What better way to start the day! The long car drive didn’t take a toll, it was rather nice, with mountains and trees by the sides. When you take the road in Kashmir, you either get lost in your thoughts, or in its history. You realise later that either way, Kashmir stayed with you; it chose you. At the Betaab Valley, we met Sundari, a Kashmiri goat who loves to pose; listened to the gently flowing water; hugged the trees, walked aimlessly (oh the feeling!), took a horse ride, splashed water and clicked lots of pictures, but memories were made somewhere else — in the varied emotions we felt. Slow down, we told ourselves; it’s okay not to race.
A quick stop at Aru Valley, where we lay on the bench for some time, we were back at the hotel to have a delicious lunch, rest in our room for some time and then head out to our picnic spot! When was the last time you did that?
Some Kashmiri kahwa , croissants, cookies and lots of chatter later, we were off to the apple orchards. Lined in what felt like a never-ending stretch, these apples are nothing like we have tasted before. We plucked a few, with the owner also teaching us which ones are ready to be plucked. We munched on and packed some, along with a bottle of home-made Kashmiri apple pickle.
The evening was reserved for music, dance and food. From Saat samundar to Laila main Laila, and everything in between, what more can you ask for to bring the night alive! We later relished a grand buffet at Mumtaz before saying goodnight.
We headed back to Radisson Collection Hotel & Spa, Riverfront Srinagar in the morning, and post lunch, a shikara ride it was, at the Dal Lake. Resting comfortable, we watched the sun set, waved at strangers in their house boats, shopped some souvenirs from the lake market, and then took off to Lal Chowk — a bustling market brimming with vibrancy — for a shopping spree. The clock tower at the centre only adds to the market’s personality.
Back at the hotel, with bags and hearts full, it was now time for a relaxing massage at Spa Loccitane. Though we would have liked the duration to be longer, there’s no denying that the spa was relaxing! Dinner at Firdaus that night with an artiste crooning Saiyara tu toh was like preparing to say a goodbye that we genuinely wished we didn’t have to. At the table, we shared stories and laughter alike and said our goodbyes. We didn’t want to leave but we had to. And we know, if no one understands it, Kashmir will.
Email: rupam@newindianexpress.com
X: @rupsjain