Madurai is one of India’s oldest cities, where the past is never far from the present. Often called the Temple City, it is best known for the magnificent Meenakshi Amman Temple, but there is plenty more here—jasmine-filled markets, busy streets, and old architecture give the city its character. Courtyard by Marriott Madurai recently completed eight years in the city, and we checked in for a short staycation to celebrate the milestone. With two days to spare, we planned to see a little of Madurai and spend the rest of our time taking it easy at the hotel.
The hotel’s central location made getting around easy. Popular attractions, markets, and food spots are all within easy reach, while the hotel can arrange cars for guests heading out.
Inside, the hotel feels sleek and contemporary. Our room was spacious and comfortable with a large bed, a marble bathroom and a generous window overlooking the greenery outside. The touch-operated controls let us adjust the lighting with a single master switch that turns everything off at once. The chair by the window soon became a favourite spot. The outdoor pool is another place to unwind between outings, while the fitness centre and spacious lobby round out the polished feel. Near the pool, under some shade, we spotted a trampoline, which we eyed with real longing but did not go near, on account of being adults with a reputation, however fictional, to protect!
At the hotel’s inhouse restaurant, Madurai Kitchen, breakfast, lunch and dinner arrive as generous buffets, with South Indian favourites alongside other cuisines, live stations and an extensive pastry and dessert selection. For breakfast, we had dosa, cold cuts, blueberry yoghurt and a cheesy omelette. Dinner brought salads, kebabs, fried fish and pasta, followed by desserts including a mango choux pastry and soft caramel pudding. The baked yoghurt, unassuming as it sounded on paper, is the one thing we returned to at every meal.
Our first outing took us to Meenakshi Amman Temple, where the experience begins before you even enter. Phones have been prohibited inside since 2018, with lockers available for visitors, and once inside, we hardly missed ours— there was simply too much to look at. The temple grew over several centuries, with major additions during the Nayak period, and its 14 gopurams, painted ceilings, carved pillars, sculptures and shrines make it difficult to know where to look first. We wandered through the markets afterwards, looking at bangles and colourful wired koodai bags before picking up jasmine flowers on the way back to the hotel.
The following morning, we slept in, because what is a staycation without sleeping past breakfast at least once? We eventually dragged ourselves out and headed to Thirumalai Nayakar Palace, built in 1636. Walking into the main courtyard, the first thing you notice is the scale. Massive white pillars rise around the open space, joined by high decorated arches, while intricate stucco work covers the domes. The Sorgavilasam, or Celestial Pavilion, is especially striking. Much of the original palace was lost, but what remains still feels grand.
We returned to the hotel for lunch and opted for the Madurai mutton thali, a hearty spread of mutton biriyani, mutton chukka, Madurai-style mutton curry, karandi omelette, porotta, rice, and gulab jamun. We also tried jigarthanda, the city’s famous chilled drink, with ice cream, basil seeds, jelly and nuts.
By evening, we made our way to Vandiyur Mariamman Teppakulam. The enormous square tank, built during King Thirumalai Nayak’s reign, covers almost 16 acres, with a temple on its northern side and a mandapam in the middle. Around 6.30 pm, the setting sun catches the water and turns it golden, with the temple reflected in it.
Back at the hotel, we headed to Balcony, The Box Office Bar, which hosts Ladies’ Night every Wednesday and DJ Night every Saturday— a small push to give the city’s younger crowd somewhere to go after dark. After a generous dinner, we asked the bartender for something light, and he turned the regular whiskey shake into a vodka shake with tamarind, passion fruit and ginger syrup. Bright, fruity and sweet, it was a refreshing finish to the stay.
Closest airport and railhead: Madurai.
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