Delhi got a taste of Michelin-starred omakase at this Japanese pop-up

“Omakase is all about trust. It’s when a guest hands over the reins and lets me create a tasting menu tailored to their preferences, leaving the details to me,” said Michelin-starred experienced chef Shun Sato as he laid out a table for us at the recently concluded omakase-style Japanese feast pop-up at The Lalit, New Delhi. The chef said omakase-style cuisine is quite popular in Japan. This give and take is what creates ‘the magic’.

Chef Sato has expertise in blending traditional Japanese flavours with global influences guided by wabi-sabi philosophy. Born into a family of culinary experts in Japan, he started as a dishwasher at a French restaurant in Tokyo and later rose up the ranks to become Sous Chef at a Michelin-starred omakase restaurant in Sydney. At the pop-up, he was joined by chef Fumiyuki Kinsu, who has worked with Chef Sato earlier and believes in carrying forward Japanese heritage with food. We took the chefs at their word and signed up for a quite experimental Japanese meal!

The Whispering Greens was the first to arrive. It had baby spinach drenched with nutty-flavoured sesame purée; the vegetal taste of the leafy greens met toasty flavours in a palate-cleansing dish. Paired with the South African white wine Ujva Sauvignon Blanc its citrusy notes and a hint of grassiness complemented the dish. We were next asked to imagine ourselves by the coast as a plate of Hokkaido scallops arrived in the dish The Pearls Of The Sea. Kissed by the delicate yuzu sanbaizu dressing, it had both an umami depth and mild citrusy notes from the vinegar-based seasoning. It went well with OH G — a wasabi curd washed bourbon infused with citrusy green apple, kaffir lime, and green tea soda. A sip of it felt like a dip in the ocean.

On cue came the Blossoms of Kyoto—delicate zucchini blossoms came enrobed in tempura and sat on a port wine truffle purée. It added a surprising sweetness to what we had expected to be a savoury dish. We also opted for a vegetarian delight, Golden Amber Prawn, which we loved for its familiar flavours. The crispy corn cob glazed with luscious caramel butter felt like molten gold on the tongue. For meat lovers, the Ember’s Feast was the choicest pick. Succulent New Zealand lamb was fire-grilled and covered in rich chipotle miso sauce for umami flavours. “I’ve always believed that umami is the foundation of flavour. We focus heavily on sourcing local, and sustainable ingredients because it’s not just about respecting the land; it’s about understanding the depth of flavour that each ingredient offers,” said Chef Sato on the feast, largely being umami-rich.

Next came a big surprise in a plate of Censu Dan Dan Noodles. Thick and soft hand-pulled noodles were mixed with sesame sauce and shredded chicken breast. It played heavily on floral notes with petals of chrysanthemums, sakura blossoms, and shiso flowers, which added a bitter taste to it in sharp contrast to what Indians usually like — spicy, garlicky and saucy noodles.

What caught us off guard was the Yuzu Bellini cocktail. A pink candy snake garnished the sparkling drink. It tasted like a chewy sugary candy, making it by far our boldest attempt at a tasting session. Lastly, we craved some comforting flavours. Finally, the decadent Celestial Yuzu Panna Cotta, where sweet silky panna cotta infused with bright yuzu essence offered creamy richness and a somewhat chocolatey taste, made every spoonful a heavenly delight.