Worn regularly by Karishma Tanna, Shamita Shetty, and closer home, Regina Cassandra; Jaipur-based Jayati Goenka began her career as a design intern with the brand Satya Paul, a decade ago. She studied at Pearl Academy of Fashion, Jaipur and launched her eponymous label in 2015. The designer bases her design philosophy in the simplicity of her origins and her roots; and her label aspires to act as a bridge between neighbourhood crafts and modern day aesthetics.
She is currently showcasing two of her collections in Chennai — Unruled, which is her SS20 collection (showcased at Lakmé Fashion Week 2020) extended to SS21 and her brand new AW21 edit, Evolve. Known for anti-fit daywear, the label envisages a mature wardrobe that focuses on button handwork, hand block prints, muddy natural dyes, sashiko embroidery and fuss free cuts.
The brand also focuses on seasonless fashion and Evolve, the latest edit, comprises unutilised finished garments that have been re-attended, resurrected and redesigned. “We do four edits per year, a Spring-Summer, an Autumn-Winter and two capsule edits in between and repurpose all of our clothing to be as sustainable as possible,” explains the 31-year-old designer.
The label takes their call to sustainability very seriously and Jayati further explains, “While studying and working in the fashion industry, I realised how harmful the chemicals used in every process of textile creation can be. As a brand, we thus decided to work with artisans from Bagru, a small town near Jaipur, where all the textiles are created with natural dyes. We work on a classic colour palette of beige that is derived from harda, a medicinal fruit; true indigo blue from the indigo plant; and grey from kasis bhasma which is also used in ayurveda.”
The two collections being showcased also feature the same colour palette and while Evolve focuses on ripple patterns and lines, Unruled focuses on clean simple lines. “In this contemporary busy world of exaggerations, complications and pretence; as a brand, we personally longed for simplicity, rawness, imperfections and quietude. My label is situated in this search for the ‘real’ and hopes to celebrate naturalness in all its myriad forms,” the designer concludes.
INR 5,000 to INR 15,000. At Collage and online.
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