Chefs Dyuti Banerjee and Biswajit Moharathi bring back lesser-known East Coast cuisines through this pop-up in Kolkata

Both Medinipur and the Sunderbans are “backward” areas from the point of view of capitalistic definitions of development. Yet they are regions so rich in produce and natural resources. Due to the coastal proximity of Medinipur, you will find a lot of seafish here, and they also cure fish, even commercially. So shnutkis are a common smell across the less touristy beaches, the cooking has a lot of jhaal, in the form of chillies.

In Sunderbans you will find an abundance of chingri, knakra and estuarine fishes, which are not found in freshwater or even seawater. The cooking practices in both areas focus on simple fare, usage of mustard oil and whole spices, and that too, not an overemphasis on gorom moshla, as it is more expensive for the common fisherfolk and forest dwellers of both regions. Food in both places, is for sustenance, and not indulgence, and it is hearty, homely working class food. I find the flavours to be robust, and wholesomely spunky.

Dyuti: Actually the cuisines of Medinipur and Sunderbans are a part of Bengali cuisine, but in our bid to marginalise the so called “backward classes” we often make this mistake of taking them out of the mainstream consciousness around culture and food. In fact, this is the reason why doing this popup was so important, because even as Bengalis, there is little to no awareness of the culinary heritage of these places, and a consequent deep condescension towards the people and their lives here.

Dyuti: Medinipur being pretty rich in agriculture and pisciculture, has a treasure trove of indigenous produce, including some absolutely niche stuff like the artistic and labour intensive goyna bori, or their Bengali version of the ghewar, the babarsa.

The Sunderbans, rich in biodiversity , but poor in terms of economy, has honey, the kewra fruit that grows only in the monsoon, the unique syncretic culture and topography, and a resilience to thrive against the hardest odds, which makes the forest dwellers forage deep within the tiger-laden jungles for survival. The gneri googly or periwinkles found in the brackish waters make for a rich source of protein, and a substitute for costly meat.

Dyuti: Yes, of course, every course cooked by me has a fusion touch. I have interpreted and appropriated the local ingredients and techniques of the micro-cuisines of these two lesser spoken regions of Bengal, in my own way, to bring them into the mainstream narrative of Bengali cuisine and to the modern palate.

I was wanting to come to Kolkata for a popup and that is when Chef Dyuti suggested we do something not done before in the city. She came up with the idea of a Coastal menu around the lesser explored flavour stories of Odia, Medinipuri and Sunderbans micro cuisines. I immediately resonated deeply with her thought, and together we curated this menu which is a journey through the East Coast of India named “Nav 2.0: The Untold East Coast Stories”. It is aimed at increasing awareness about the versatility of local ingredients of the Eastern Coast.

Biswajit: Bengal and Odisha share a rich cultural heritage that is vividly reflected in their culinary traditions.

Bengali and Odia cuisines both cherish rice and fish, with a profound love for subtle spices and fresh ingredients. Bengali dishes like Shorshe Ilish (hilsa fish in mustard sauce) have parallels in Odisha's Macha Besara (fish in mustard paste). The use of Panch Phoron, a five-spice blend, is another common thread, infusing both cuisines with its aromatic warmth.

Odisha's Pakhala Bhata, a fermented rice dish, finds a distant cousin in Bengal's Panta Bhat, illustrating a shared appreciation for simple, cooling meals ideal for their humid climate. Sweets form another delightful connection, with Odisha's Chhena Poda and Bengal's Sandesh both celebrating the rich, creamy goodness of chhena (cottage cheese).