Assamese Chef Gitika Saikia spills the beans on the cuisine and her crowd favourite special dish
Chef Gitika Saikia, left behind a corporate career of over a decade and went ahead with what she enjoys a lot- cooking and curating food. Conceptualised in 2014, her venture, Gitika’s PakGhor, which loosely translates to Gitika’s house of food, started exploring Assamese cuisine and introducing the same to the people. With the State having several communities with their own cooking techniques along with certain influences from other parts of the country, it is interesting to see the different dishes, flavours, textures, combinations, and cooking methods that are used in making an Assamese dish.
Gitika, who was recently hosting a pop-up in Mumbai spoke to Indulge on the sidelines about her home-cooking venture, interpretation of Assamese food, her ever popular Silkworm Pupae dish, and much more in a candid conversation.
Here's what Chef Gitika Saika had to say about her recent pop-up, popular dish, Assamese cuisine and more
Can you take us through your interpretation of Assamese food?
Assamese cuisine can broadly be classified into two categories: Urban (or Mainland) Assamese and Tribal Assamese. Urban Assamese cuisine reflects a strong influence from mainland Indian communities, evident in the use of spices like jeera, dhania, and panch phoran, as well as in its cooking techniques. In contrast, Tribal Assamese cuisine bears greater resemblance to the culinary traditions of other North eastern states, characterised by the use of indigenous herbs, fermentation, and cooking methods such as smoking or steaming in bamboo hollows.
What would you say a traditional Assamese thali consists of?
A simple rural thali typically includes rice, khar, and a spicy chutney. A slightly more elaborate version features khar, bhoja, one or two non-vegetarian dishes, dal, and steamed rice.
Tell us about your pop-up at Ishaara in Mumbai and what Assamese traditional delicacies the guests savoured?
The showcase at Ishaara was centred around seasonality, and with the monsoon upon us, we introduced a few lesser-known, not-so-popular, or glamorous greens—using Fiddlehead Fern (Chicken with Fern and Cherry Tomatoes), Gourd Leaves (Red Lentils and NE herbs, steamed), Fresh Bamboo Shoot (Butter Beans Banh Gaaz), Mourola Sis with lightly fermented bamboo shoot, Nangol Thuwa Pitha, Black Sticky Rice Payokh, and many more.
In another recent pop-up, your silkworm pupae dish was a massive hit. Please tell us about the dish and how the silkworm is prepared to be eaten?
Yes, this pop-up was held in Bangalore and was organised by Bangalore Foodhounds, founded by Jonaki Biswas. It was a seven-course sit-down experience attended by nearly 40 food enthusiasts. I served two exotic dishes, in keeping with the theme of Bohag Bihu. These were: silkworm pupae prepared in the traditional Bodo-style char preparation, and red ant eggs scrambled with duck eggs. Both dishes are considered must-haves during the Bohag Bihu festival. We also conducted a live demo for our guests, which sparked a lot of curiosity as they got to see the ingredients in their raw, authentic form.
How do you think the rise of fusion food and experimentation in food is affecting the traditional authenticity of a cuisine?
In my opinion, fusion cuisine is good and welcome to cater to the new generation, but it requires a thoughtful approach to ensure it doesn’t lose its original essence.
One recipe that has been passed on to you from your family kitchen
There are many dishes I cherish, but the one with duck and black dal holds a special place in my heart.
Ingredients:
● Duck – 1 kg
● Urad Dal (pre-boiled) – 200 g
● Onion – 1
● Ginger-Garlic Paste – 2 tsp
● Broad Leaf Coriander
● Black Pepper
● Mustard Oil
● Salt
● Turmeric
Method:
Heat mustard oil in a pan.
● Sauté the chopped onion, ginger, and garlic until fragrant.
● Add the duck meat, cover, and cook for 20 minutes.
● Then add the pre-boiled urad dal and simmer gently for another 20–25 minutes.
● Adjust seasoning to taste.
● Serve hot with sticky rice.
Tell us about Gitika’s PakGhor – when was it conceptualised, how does the cuisine stand out, and what is your roadmap with your venture?
After a successful 12-year career in corporate marketing communications, I decided to start Gitika’s PakGhor in 2014 to create a distinctive identity for ‘unexplored’ cuisine. Under this brand, I curate both mainland and tribal cuisines—drawing from my own heritage as a member of the Sonowal Katharine Bodo tribe—through pop-ups, private catering, and guest lectures at catering colleges. In the near future, I am working on transforming my village home into a small homestay that offers authentic rural experiences. The renovation work has already begun in the village.
Do you have other pop-ups planned in 2025? Can you tell us what the year looks like ahead?
Yes, discussions are underway for Bangalore and Goa.
