The final visual of the latest cinematic rage, Oppenheimer, sees the protagonist hallucinating being inside the Enola Gay as it drops the atomic bomb on Hiroshima, and the visual took me straight back to my recent trip to Virginia, via Washington DC, where I stood transfixed for more than a long minute as I saw before me the actual aircraft that carried the bomb, standing a silent sentinel, sans remorse; not proud, but nose in the air, answering the unasked question with, “I just did my job...”
Preserved in mint condition and almost ready for take-off, The Enola Gay is clearly the main attraction at the Smithsonian’s National Air and Space Museum, the Steven F Udvar-Hazy Center, which also displays thousands of aviation and space artefacts, including the Space Shuttle Discovery, a Blackbird SR-71, and a Concorde, in two large hangars. For Indians travelling to the US, and there are many doing that now post-COVID, what with direct flights from Delhi and Mumbai, getting you to the States quicker than ever. And, if you’re the kind who likes a packed itinerary with as many places to see during your time there, you might want to do what we did and head to the Center as soon as you land in DC. It’s next door to the Dulles International Airport, and you don’t want to waste time coming back here from downtown.
Nestled in Northern Virginia just across the Potomac River from DC, Fairfax County offers an enticing mix of big-city amenities, small-town charm and picture-perfect natural surroundings. It is said that ‘no matter what your perfect day may be like, you’ll experience it in Fairfax County’. You can rediscover America’s history through countless historical sites; you can unwind at one of the many breweries and wineries; connect with nature at their endless parks, rivers and outdoor escapes.
We started off by staying at Tysons’ new urban-chic boutique hotel, Archer Tysons. Located at the foot of the McLean Silver Line Metro station. And, for those, like me, who haven’t visited these parts in over a decade, the Metro is a new addition and this emerging hub of commerce with emerging retail stores and restaurants sure promises to be a walkable 24/7 destination.
Tysons Corner Center offers some must-see upscale stores and eateries, plus a cinema and an elevated outdoor plaza featuring special events, including a seasonal SummerFest, which is a great place for both kids and adults to chill, mingle and down a few pints. The Perch, as it’s called, is nestled atop the new Capital One Center. This green patch soars over 10 stories above the bustling street. You walk through a beautiful park, watch a performance, enjoy the games plaza, or drink and dine at one of the many food trucks that have been craned 10 storeys up!
Back down on the street, Tysons Galleria is one of the Capital Region’s premier upscale shopping and dining experiences. Some of the world’s most luxurious retailers — Burberry, Cartier, Chanel and Versace — are located here, as well as a selection of boutiques including Lily Pulitzer, J Crew and Eileen Fisher. Do check shop timings, as on most weekdays, they close pretty early. There are several dining options at hand: Chopathi India Kitchen and Taste of India; Barrel and Bushel and Wren at Watermark Hotel alongside The Perch. Food portions are large, so watch how you order. If the night is still young for you, you might want to drive down to the riverside and on the banks of the Potomac are several watering holes worth checking out.
The mornings are for adventure and an early start can bring you to the Geology Hall of Fame, Luray Caverns. This is one of the largest caverns in the eastern United States. Tours along lighted, paved walkways lead you through cathedral-sized rooms with ceilings 10 stories high, towering stone formations, and natural wonders at every turn. This is a must-visit for adventurers of all ages.
The day is still young, and beckoning you is the Shenandoah National Park. Driving through, you get to enjoy some of the most spectacular views of the famous Shenandoah Valley. Even though you’re not exactly on the right side of the Blue Range Mountains, listening to Kenny Rogers’ Country Roads is much advised along this drive.
Awaiting you at the end of the drive is the beautiful, Charlottesville, Virginia! As you take in the beauty of spring at Charlottesville and Albemarle County, you are reminded of the fact that this is serious wine country with over 40 wineries along the Monticello Wine Trail. We start off at The Looking Glass, which is Virginia’s first immersive art exhibit. The Ix Art Park is an outdoor art space and community centre that features many displays of art. The space is also home to many events throughout the year, including a year-round farmers market, concerts, and movie nights.
We dropped anchor at The Draftsman, Charlottesville, an Autograph Collection Hotel designed with a curator’s touch that celebrates the spirit of Virginia’s original voices. The Draftsman is a Celebration of Thomas Jefferson, the man who drafted the Declaration of Independence. From the stylish, boutique hotel accommodations to the local artwork, every aspect is meticulously crafted and makes you stop, stare and think about its history.
A celebration of food and beverage received us at the historic Monticello Dairy Building in downtown Charlottesville. The Dairy Market is the first market hall concept in Virginia’s Central Piedmont. If the early dinner here was wholesome, the morning breakfast at Petite MarieBette was a delightful treat. Marie Bette was conceived by Jason Becton and Patrick Evans who first met at the International Culinary Center and the place is named after their daughters, Marian and Betty. It’s homely and warm and the aroma of its breads will draw you from afar. Be prepared for a short queue in as it’s a favourite even among the locals.
After a sumptuous breakfast, we strap on our boots and prepare to march into Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello, home of the author of the Declaration of Independence. Giving us a primer to the estate was one of the late President’s descendants, Gayle Jessup White, who filled us in on the fact that the homestead was run by 253 black slaves, supervised by 17 hired workers, and all these people served but five members of the Thomas Jefferson family.
A walk through the grounds takes you back to the time of slavery as you peer through the slave quarters and workstations, juxtaposed against the flamboyant European Luxury, brought alive by the visionary statesman, diplomat, lawyer, philosopher and architect, who served as the third president of the United States, in a monument of a home called Monticello. Our next stop was the not-tobe-missed experience at Michie Tavern. This rustic restaurant setting renders a lunch experience rich in southern culture and hospitality. Get a taste of the 18th-century with an eat-asmuch-as-you-want offering of southern specialities of Southern Fried Chicken; Marinated Baked Chicken; Cole slaw; Whole Baby Beets; smoked Pulled Pork Barbecue; Mashed potatoes and gravy; Stewed Tomatoes, Green Beans, Cornbread and Biscuits.
All this food needed a bit of washing down and we headed to the Blenheim Vineyards. Kirsty Harmon, one of the few female winemakers in the region, is a very different kind of vintner and prefers to let her wine do the talking. We spend the afternoon out on the large deck, with a view of the vines and talk about the region’s wine history and Blenheim’s connection to renowned musician Dave Matthews. Interestingly, it’s Dave who designs the labels on the bottles. Of course, we had to buy a few!
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Time for more shopping and we head to Charlottesville’s historic Downtown Pedestrian Mall. A wonderful mix of restored and renovated buildings, and one can enjoy shopping and dining along the brick-paved pedestrian area. Students of literature and poetry lovers will surely not want to miss a walk through University of Virginia, home to the one and only Edgar Allan Poe, known for his cultivation of mystery and the macabre, through his works like The Raven. The university was founded and designed by Thomas Jefferson himself, and is a part of the UNESCO World Heritage site, along with Monticello.
The tour will take you to Edgar Allan Poe’s old dorm room, preserved the way he (probably) left it. While the poet is said to have left his course midway, he is still very much a part of the university’s history and the Raven Society keeps his memory alive at the university with talks and readings of his work.
If you’re feeling homesick already, there are great Indian dining places with comfort food options. We head to Kanak Indian Kitchen and enjoy some ‘homemade’ dhal chawal, mutton biryani, and chicken kebab, that make you feel that home can be wherever you are, as long as there’s mutton biryani and chicken kebab. (Watch this space for more travel stories from Virginia, USA)
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