DUCA took over a space that used to be The Summer House Eatery, rebuilt it entirely and put a Scotland-trained chef in the kitchen. The interiors are warm, single-toned walls with textured putty finishes and lighting that lands exactly right. Commissioned murals of Seinfeld’s Monk’s Café and Monica’s apartment from Friends sit on the walls, chosen by an owner who spent a decade in Boston where those shows were home. The garden outside holds 80 to 90 people under shade netting with coolers and lights. In the evening it will be lovely. It already is.
When asked about the name, founder Yoganandan says, “The name DUCA comes from the Italian word for “Duke,” which embodies a sense of elegance, refinement, and understated luxury.
Staying true to its name, we have designed a contemporary restaurant-café where guests can indulge in exceptional cuisine, relax in a warm and inviting atmosphere.
We started with the 12-hour braised chicken soup, it is deeply umami, built from roasting and slow cooking with no dairy, and arrives with minced chicken as garnish. The soup itself is excellent. The minced chicken on top was not a hit for us but the base underneath it is genuinely comforting.
The Spicy thecha tofu sandwich is the surprise. Toasted bread, roasted bell peppers, thecha and tofu: crispy outside, soft within, the pepper sweet and juicy, the thecha rustic and heat-forward, the tofu softening everything without flattening it. Smirkingly spicy and continuously interesting.
The Battered fish and chips is well coated and properly flaky inside, honest and good. A minute on a draining rack before plating would make it noticeably better. The Malaysian roti canai is the one to not miss. Flaky, soft, aromatic. The chicken curry alongside it could use a tad bit more finesse but the roti makes that irrelevant because you will eat it alone and be very glad you did. The Mirapakkai bajji is the right order for a rainy evening with the garden view.
The Dynamite prawns are the best thing on the table. Tempura-fried, sriracha aioli, the prawns fresh and juicy underneath the crispiness. The aioli has exactly the right amount of heat. This is a must try in the most unqualified possible sense.
We drank an ABC kombucha through the meal and finished with a mocha on almond milk, sourced and specially roasted for DUCA. The coffee here is as considered as the food and we will return for it alone.
Meal for two: Rs 1,200 +. 12 noon to 11 pm. At DUCA, Alwarpet.
Email: shivani@newindianexpress.com
X: @ShivaniIllakiya
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