There are days when everything falls perfectly into place, and the drive to Sheraton Grand Chennai Resort & Spa along the East Coast Road was exactly that sort of experience. The weather was clement, the traffic surprisingly forgiving, and the meal that awaited us turned out to be the crowning glory of the evening.
The Coastal Soirée, an exclusive three-day culinary pop-up in collaboration with award-winning restaurant HOSA, was helmed by Chef Harish Rao. The menu celebrated the bold and varied flavours of South India’s coastline, while presenting them through a contemporary lens. What won our hearts was how Chef Harish’s approach, which was rooted in nostalgia and regional identity, managed to elevated every single dish with modern techniques and refined plating.
One of the standout dishes was the Roti Canai with tawa chicken and kachumber salad. Inspired by the flaky flatbread popular in South India, the flatbread arrived beautifully crisp and layered, its buttery folds soaking up rich chicken gravy. The succulent pieces of chicken rested atop what Chef Harish described simply as a reimagined salna, the familiar Tamil-style gravy often paired with parotta. The accompanying kachumber salad added freshness and crunch, balancing the richness of the dish. “The idea was to focus on our own cuisine, which has a myriad of flavours. I am a local boy after all,” the chef remarked, and the sentiment was evident in every bite.
The meal opened with Kozhi Saaru, a deeply comforting spiced chicken broth served alongside grilled chicken skewers. Light yet flavourful, the broth carried the warmth and depth of a slow-cooked Kozhi kuzhambu saaru, evoking memories of home-cooked meals and grandmother’s recipes. The grilled chicken, delicately charred, added texture and smokiness to the dish, and we highly recommend this one. The chicken pieces were so succulent that we couldn’t just stop at one.
For vegetarians, the Coconut Milk Rasam offered an inventive reinterpretation of a South Indian staple. Instead of the usual peppery tamarind broth, this version incorporated the mellow sweetness of coconut milk, paired with a silky coconut panna cotta and charred cherry tomatoes. The result was delicate, aromatic and unexpectedly elegant.
Among the starters, the Curry Leaf Pesto Snapper with Kokum Rasa stood out for its layered coastal flavours. The snapper was cooked just right, retaining its delicate texture, while the curry leaf pesto lent herbaceous depth. The kokum rasa, tart and lightly spiced, cut through the richness beautifully.
When the dish arrived, the chef simply asked us to take a spoonful and waited, almost mischievously, for our reaction. Just as we were admiring the beautifully delicate texture of the snapper, he revealed the twist. The fish had never seen heat. Completely raw, the preparation had begun nearly ten hours earlier, allowing the snapper to slowly absorb the flavours of the curry leaf marinade. So beautifully cured was the fish that there was not the slightest hint of it being uncooked. A definite standout of the day.
Equally memorable was the Shinji Mushroom Varuval. Earthy mushrooms were stir-fried until intensely flavourful, then paired with a creamy mushroom pâté. The addition of fresh green peppercorns brought bursts of sharp heat and crunch, making each mouthful wonderfully textured and addictive.
The Aubergine Steak was another inventive interpretation of familiar ingredients. Thick slices of grilled aubergine were cooked until smoky and tender, then served with crisp coin parottas that provided both crunch and buttery richness. The dish transformed humble brinjal into something deeply satisfying and refined.
Another standout dish of the evening was the Drakshi Gojju. Inspired by the comforting simplicity of thayir saadam, this version replaced rice with sago pearls folded into yoghurt. Pickled grapes introduced sweetness and acidity, creating a dish that was simultaneously familiar and intriguing. It was comfort food reimagined with remarkable finesse.
Dessert arrived in the form of Muskmelon Ice Cream paired with Watermelon Granita and Warm Chocolate Chilli Ganache. The cool fruit flavours brought lightness and freshness, while the chocolate ganache added richness with a gentle chilli warmth that lingered pleasantly on the palate.
The cocktail programme deserves equal mention for its creativity and balance. Make It Clear blended London dry gin with house-made cucumber and basil cordial, Sauvignon Blanc and a hibiscus float, resulting in a drink that was herbaceous, tangy and refreshingly light, a perfect one to begin a meal after a long drive. Gun Fizz Powder, on the other hand, combined London dry gin with passion fruit and Vanilla Cordial, finished with carbonated water and a gunpowder-spice rim. Fruity and spicy, it carried a playful complexity.
Chica Bonita leaned into bolder flavours, combining tequila reposado with coriander and chilli cordial, fresh watermelon and balsamic reduction. Sweet, salty, tangy and faintly bitter, it delivered impressive depth. Deccan Fire, meanwhile, was unapologetically sharp and spicy, featuring tequila blanco infused with cottage cheese, South Indian masala mix and olives for a savoury edge.
The evening concluded with Kokum Cola, a refreshing non-alcoholic drink whose tangy sweetness proved the perfect palate cleanser after a richly layered meal.
Meal for one: Vegetarian set menu-Rs 4000++
Non-Vegetarian Set Menu: Rs 4500 ++
On till May 10
Lunch at Pintail Lounge: 12.45pm–3pm, Dinner at C Salt: 7pm–11pm
Sheraton Grand Chennai Resort & Spa, ECR
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