This time of the year, with Onam having begun, households in Kerala have started prepping for the 10-day harvest festival. The festival falls on the first month of the Malayalam calendar, Chingam (mostly in August), marking the return of generous king Mahabali.
In a typical Kerala household, one may expect a splendid spread of the Onam sadhya prepared for the occasion. Spices like mustard seeds, curry leaves, and red chillies are tempered to make the creamy buttermilk called Pulisseri. Unpolished rice is served on a washed banana leaf. Avial, a mixture of green vegetables grated with coconut and covered in yoghurt, teases the taste buds with a tad tangy flavour.
Subtle gravies like Puli Inji, Koottukari, Kaalan, Nagala Curry, Kadala and more are served with crunchy papadam, banana chips, mango pickle, Pazham Pori, and Vada. And then there are the sweet dishes! Now, you can go on a delectable cruise of the coastal state’s festive platter in Hyderabad! The flavours of Malabar are served at Gaurang’s Kitchen in a whopping 25-item Onam Sadhya Thali.
We were invited to indulge in a delicious meal on a sunny afternoon ahead of Onam. The meal was prepared with indigenous spices of Kerala that filled our baithak with the wafting aroma, the moment food arrived in a Kansa Thali. The spread looked scrumptious, vibrant in colour, and rich in texture.
We started off with the Malabar Paratha, which was layered much like the lachhaa paratha of North India. Topped with ghee, we relished it with gravies like Koottukari, which was a tad sweet, and Kaalan, which had a mild sourness due to the presence of yoghurt. We loved the unpolished round rice that is said to be more nutrient-rich and tasted palatable with most of the curries. Apart from the gravies, dry vegetables like Avial and Thoran were also likable for their simplicity and quality taste.
Alongside the main course, we loved the crispy side-ons like banana chips, Pazham Pori (sweet banana fritters), Uzhunnu Vada, and Papadam. They unleashed a burst of flavours when we had them with lemon pickle, and red and white chutney (paste). The assortment of items was given in an appropriate quantity and low on spices, which made our stomachs as happy as a clam and left us wanting more. The spread was made in coconut oil — a staple in Kerala — and did not feel heavy on the stomach. This is why, even after relishing the complete Thali, we still had an appetite for sweet dishes.
Soon, we dunked ourselves in the sweetness of Ada Payasam. This combination of coconut milk, rice, and jaggery garnished with fried dry fruits was sweet but not to the extent of making us full after a soupçon. The dry fruits added the crunchiness to the otherwise custard-like dish that sat well on our sweet tooth. Parippu Pradhaman was similar to Payasam with a basic difference of rice being replaced by moong dal in the latter. Those who bear the love for grain can go for either. The whole meal, indeed revived the magic of Kerala in Hyderabad with a spoonful of spices, oodles of authenticity, and loads of love showered while preparing the wholesome platter.
₹ 2500 for two. At Jubilee Hills.
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