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Rimzim Dadu’s latest drop, Stucco, showcased at ICWxFDCI, is an immersive celebration of history and modernity

Rimzim Dadu’s Stucco at Hyundai India Couture Week by Fashion Design Council of India reimagines 18 years of design evolution through a Baroque-inspired lens of modern couture

Sharmistha Ghosal

Couturier Rimzim Dadu’s latest couture collection, Stucco, unveiled at Hyundai ICWxFDCI, draws inspiration from the ornate and theatrical elements of Baroque architecture, and explores the depths of historical opulence through the lens of cutting-edge designs. Rimzim’s signature use of experimental textiles and progressive techniques transforms traditional motifs into modern sculptures, while paying homage to her rich repository of experimentations from the past 18 years. Rimzim takes us through this wonderful collection in which she has revisited some of her masterpieces— going as far as back to her first collection.

Excerpts from our chat:

Tell us about Stucco.

The textures of this collection include innovative textiles, metallic yarns, steel wires, and traditional zardozi elements. Dominated by deep ruby red, antique gold, and burnt orange, the range features exaggerated silhouettes with corset tops, modern lehengas, sculptural saris, and sherwanis and tuxedos for men.

There's a baroque inspired cage dress with 80 intricately crafted motifs adorned with crystal embellishments and metal beads, an archival skirt, made of leather sequins, a courtesan cape, a sculptural emerald piece woven from steel threads and lined with gold silk, adorned with hand-sewn pearls, and a ring gown, crafted from a single seamless panel.

Any party and occasion wear trends that will prevail this winter?

This season, party and occasion wear has become more refined, reaching a space where the clothes are experimental and new-age. Trends include metal draped skirts, cord-weaved bustiers, cord one-shoulder draped tops, and sculpted metallic cords. We also see a focus on mesh and weaved tailored jackets and kurtas.

What inspires you?

Think steel, leather, chiffon, cord, repurposed Zari fringes, and even paper.

Sculpting different materials around the human form, understanding how they flow, while creating structure and fluidity, is at the core of my designs. I've always been a bit of a rebel and a nonconformist.

My journey as a designer began with a clear piece of advice from my father: 'Whatever you create, you have to be very unique. You need to give the world something they haven't seen before.' This guiding philosophy has been the cornerstone of my work, driving me to create inimitable designs through an innovative play with materials to develop my own textiles.

My inspiration often comes from unconventional sources outside of fashion, like a hardware market. I find beauty in materials that don't necessarily associate with fashion. This pushes me to be daring and unconventional, constantly exploring new ways to challenge and expand the boundaries of fashion. I believe in the unapologetic expression of freedom and self-expression. Movement is hypnotising to me. The way an element manoeuvres with a certain resounding rhythm can completely absorb your attention.

Upcoming collections?

Our upcoming collections will further push the boundaries of design and craftsmanship, incorporating unconventional materials and cutting-edge techniques. So much is in the works - a home décor line and some artworks are in the pipeline.