Every few months, KNK Road adds a new name to a list that already includes some of Chennai’s most interesting places to eat. The former residential stretch of Nungambakkam has evolved steadily into the city’s most fashionable lifestyle destination, and The Brunch Theory is the newest addition to that story. Built around a simple idea, dishes that are easy to eat, and flavourful without being heavy, it arrived with a menu that covered considerably more ground than the format might suggest.
We began with the drinks, which gave us a good read on the kitchen's instincts. The Coconut espresso cooler was well-calibrated and easy to enjoy, the coconut smoothing out the coffee's edge without losing the character of either. The Banana bread latte was the richer of the two, warm and gently sweet. The Kraft signature MAB, mango, apple and banana blended with hung curd and milk, was clean and refreshing, the hung curd giving it a body that made it more than just a fruit drink.
The Savoury oat pancake caught us off guard. Fluffy and properly made, with spinach, sundried tomatoes and feta crumble running through and a basil pesto alongside, the oat base added a subtle body.
Next up was Crispy podi oyster mushrooms, which carried a homely warmth from the curry leaf gunpowder tossing, the texture and spice were instantly familiar and comforting.
The Singapore chilli crab toast set a confident tone for the seafood side of the menu. Crab in a Singapore chilli sauce, finished with coriander aioli, crispy shallots and lime, it was bold and properly seasoned throughout.
This was followed by Prawn sticky rice risotto, featuring sticky jasmine rice cooked in prawn bisque with chilli butter and lemon, with the prawn flavour running deeply through every spoonful. Meanwhile, the Brown butter barley salad was the most wholesome plate, nutty barley with mushrooms, garlic spinach, toasted almonds and pan grettato, a genuinely satisfying combination.
The Porotta was the heartiest plate on the table and handled its weight well. Flaky parotta stuffed with lamb kheema and crowned with buttery fried eggs, it had the richness of a proper meal dressed up as a brunch dish, which is something of a skill.
The Dim sum bowl, one of their bestsellers, was subtle and well-constructed. Steamed dim sum in a red curry coconut broth with caramelised onion and bok choy, its flavour building quietly.
Desserts were a masterpiece. The Dark chocolate curry leaf mousse was the dessert we kept talking about. Dark chocolate mousse with crispy curry leaf and coconut crumbs, it was inventive and well-executed in equal measure. A must try for sure. The Tahini caramel cheesecake closed things out with a silkier, more composed finish, the sesame brittle providing the crunch it needed.
Meal for one: INR 600++. 11 am to 11 pm. At The Brunch Theory, Nungambakkam.
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