If a short trip to somewhere green and cool is what you are looking for this summer, Kathmandu Valley has far more than just that to offer. Filled with layers of history and civilisation that date back over two thousand years, there’s more to Nepal than just Mount Everest. A haven for hikers, Nepal’s breath-taking landscapes—from its Terai regions in the foothills to the snow-capped mountains up in the north—transform along with its food and ethnicities.
The quick three-day trip on an invitation from Moxy Kathmandu was pleasantly surprising, as we never expected to discover so much natural beauty and history around us. What we loved most about the capital of this erstwhile small Hindu kingdom is the cleanliness all around, be it the main roads, bylanes or neighbourhood alleys. For this, the common people of Nepal credit the newly elected 35-year-old Prime Minister of Nepal, Balendra Shah, to a large extent.
As we alighted from our shocking pink car at the predominantly pink premises of Moxy Kathmandu, our home for the next three days, the energetic vibes, foot-tapping music and smiling faces at the reception took away all the lethargy of a long journey. Part of the Marriott International portfolio in South Asia, Moxy is a playful, trendy, and budget-friendly boutique hotel with a swanky rooftop pool, fitness centre, terrace lounge bar, and a fancy diner.
After a refreshing late lunch, we headed to one of the historical sites in the heart of Kathmandu. Boudanath, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of the biggest and holiest spherical stupas for the Tibetan Buddhists. Tucked away almost 11 km northeast of the city centre, the dome suddenly stuns you with its sprawling expanse and the bustling European-style cafes, Tibetan curio shops and monasteries that encircle it. The site instantly reminded us of the majestic Duomo and its surrounding piazza in Italy’s Firenze. We joined the monks and pilgrims for a quick clockwise jaunt around the stupa before settling into one of the buzzing cafes to cool our feet while enjoying the panoramic view of the stupa plaza. The whitewashed dome with Buddha eyes painted on all four sides of the central tower looked ethereal against the setting sun.
The first night in Kathmandu was spent at Moxy’s fine diner, La Hacienda, located on the 11th floor of the property. Specialising in Spanish delights, the restaurant has an interesting menu. We started with Tortilla Soup. The tomato broth, enriched with fried tortilla, avocado and cream cheese, had a refreshing note thanks to the chilli flakes and a dash of cilantro. After a round of tacos and tostadas, we settled for the mains comprising Salmon Veracruzana. This grilled orange fish fillet came with tomato, fried capers and olives. The dessert came in the form of Bunuelo, an indulgent mix of fried dough, fresh fruits, ice cream and cream cheese.
The next day demanded a lot of energy for the five-hour uphill trek in Shivapuri Nagarjun National Park, a rich repository of flora and fauna and a sanctuary for birds. Covered densely with pine and oak trees, the forest is maintained by the army. The deafening chorus of various feathered friends soothed our ears and kept us company throughout the climb up. As we trekked up, witnessing the stunning views of the Himalayas at every bend of the dense forest, a few deer crossed past in search of breakfast. Three hours of strenuous trek later, we spotted the crest of the majestic Nagi Gumpa nunnery perched at a height of 2,330 metres on the forested slopes. It is home to over 100 nuns. It also houses a school bustling with toddler monks, whom we watched running across the small patch of greens. From Nagi Gumpa, one can get an incredibly surreal bird’s-eye view of the Kathmandu Valley, including the airport strip.
The evening was spent at our hotel’s rooftop bar, Carino, savouring a range of popular Nepali street food including the buff meat choila.
The last day started with a neighbourhood trail around Kathmandu’s Nagpokhari Marg, where we saw some striking old architecture.
We loved the thoughtfully planted Jacaranda trees with light lavender-coloured flowers in full bloom across the city. The sojourn came to an end with a stroll at the beautiful Kamal Pokhari jogging club and a wholesome sip of refreshing brews at Bikers Café.
Then we proceeded to one of the oldest cities in the Kathmandu Valley – Lalitpur. Also known as Patan, this ancient city is a living history, with the ancient and modern architecture co-existing side by side. The best way to discover Patan is simply ambling around without an agenda. Just like Florence, you will stumble upon history around every corner, be it old temples, the Newari houses or small monastic courtyards. The connecting cool walkways under the houses lead to sprawling courtyards in the middle of the neighbourhoods, where you can spot ancient drinking fountains and reservoirs called Hiti or dhunge dhara. The temples beautifully embody both Hindu and Buddhist traditions in terms of architecture and idols. The most fascinating part of Patan is the Durbar Square. Always bustling with tourists, the square is replete with beautiful temples and is a hub for local cultural and religious festivals. After a hurried tour of Patan Royal Palace and the adjacent museum, we had a sumptuous Newari thali at a diner inside the museum premises.
After a little downtime at the hotel, we got ready to explore Kathmandu’s famed nightlife. But before that, we dined at the famed Bhojan Griha, housed in a 150-year-old heritage building, formerly the residence of the late royal priest. We relished the delicacies from Nepali cuisines, including Thakali and Newari, as live Nepali folk songs and dances by the local artistes kept our gastronomic juices flowing.
Next, we proceeded to Thamel, where shops never shut. The pulsating pubs have similar electric vibes to those in Shillong. Throbbing with live music and an energetic yet civil crowd comprising a healthy mix of locals and foreigners, Purple Haze Rock Bar, with its live stage performance, won our hearts.
A mix of traditions and modernity, Kathmandu is full of life and endless stories. Courtyards and temples coexist with Buddhist prayer flags that flutter above the electric wires. The sound of temple bells and motorcycle horns overwhelms you. The vibrant and safe nightlife enthrals you. And this is what makes the old city so unique.
But the only hassling part, perhaps, lies in travelling to and from Nepal. If you happen to travel from South or East India, brace for an arduous connecting flight from Delhi or Mumbai. This really needs to be addressed by both governments, as an entire day gets lost in transit.
Note: The author was in Kathmandu Valley on an invitation from Moxy Kathmandu.