Playing with Shadows: Couturier Payal Khandwala appreciates the beauty of  shaded outlines in her new collection Release 9

It is no secret that couturier Payal Khandwala has aced every collection that has been released under her label. With her latest drop, Release 9, being unveiled, we experience a fresh sense of style and a sombre yet striking series of silhouettes.

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As we explore the vivid collection, we dive into a candid chat with Payal to understand more about the same. We learn about the inspirations that have sparked these silhouettes into existence, the greater focus on the label’s signature elements, the diverse colour palette and more. Excerpts from the chat:

Tell us more about what went behind deciding the inspirations for Release 9.
Just looking out of my balcony window at my potted plants and studying the shadows they cast as the sun moves along in the sky. I’m fascinated by the shape of things and shadows have their own life in a way. It was an uncomplicated and unintellectual beginning really, just a medium to separate colour in the most organic way. I find sometimes the strongest inspiration lies in the simplest of things.

How different is this collection from your previous ones?
Shades of ivory and ecru are more in focus this time. So, a neutral palette, not as separates to coordinate with vivid colours, but more pivotal to the release, is a change for the brand. There are also more options that can be worn as co-ordinates as well as separates to build a more personal wardrobe with layering.

What moved you to focus more on your signature element — colour blocking, in this collection?
Colour blocking has more longevity in terms of mixing and matching with other wardrobe staples, it’s also more versatile when you pick timeless pieces for your closet. Also, I missed a solid representation of colour blocking in our recent releases, so I thought it might be nice to circle back to that, in this release.

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Tell us more about ‘the soft neutrals that are teamed with a vivid palette.’
This palette has a vivid ver million and magenta for those who love colour, the slightly pushed back blues and greens for those who love colour but like a more subtle palette, and the many shades of ivory stone, ecru and pebble for everyone who loves 50 shades of whites in the summer.

What are the reasons for zeroing in on the fabrics you have chosen for this collection?
They’re easy-to-wear fabrics — linens and silks breathe well, regulate temperature well and are generally preferred by our loyalists. Plus, they’re easy to dress up and down.

You have called the silhouettes for this collection ‘distinct’. Which ones can we look forward to and what sets them apart?
We have some dress shapes inspired by the kurta, jackets inspired by the trench but more minimal and a pre-draped pleated sari skirt. All of these can work as coordinates as well as separates to help customers style it their own way.

How do you think fashion has evolved in Chennai?
I think it’s more experimental now, our customers are more open to trying silhouettes that are different and also comfort takes precedence in the choices they make.

How have you kept this collection suitable to Chennai, in terms of designs, silhouettes and other elements?
I don’t design specifically for a market, but when I design the clothes, I keep in mind the woman that shares a certain DNA with the label. So, we rally the troops that share the same values that the brand does and then it doesn’t matter which city these women live in.

Is the collection visiting stores in Bengaluru, Hyderabad or Kolkata anytime soon?
It’s available at Ogaan in Hyderabad and launching shortly at Elahe and Ogaan Kolkata.

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Could you share a bit of information on your upcoming project?
Our next release will be a continuation of sorts, but with a different print story and in formal, richer textiles.

₹13,800 onwards.
At Collage, Rutland Gate 4th St.
Also available online.