Designer Gautam Gupta is thrilled about his third baby, Avartan, created out of his love for our planet. A circular design initiative, this new label by Gautam, who also helms Asha Gautam and GG by Asha Gautam, explores a material-led design approach. The debut collection, One World, has understated outfits made of undyed recycled cotton and linen, alongside reconstructed craft fragments. “Rather than treating sustainability as an aesthetic, this collection begins with what already exists, allowing process, material, and time to shape each garment. On a more personal note, after 23 years of being part of this industry, I find myself reflecting on the journey,” says Gautam.
Gautam tells us that Avartan was shaped through years of travelling, meeting artisans, and witnessing their realities firsthand. “Across different regions, I kept seeing the same challenges of handcrafted traditions gradually being overshadowed by mass production. Everywhere, artisans struggle with irregular livelihoods and unfair wages and lack of essential natural resources like water. All this made me question the direction the fashion industry was taking,” he explains.
You say, Avartan is a byproduct of your concerns around the use of polyester…
The fashion’s heavy reliance on polyester also concerned me. Even in conversations about sustainability and circularity, recycled polyester was celebrated widely. Yet, many garments are worn directly against the skin, and polyester never felt like a truly responsible or mindful solution to me. On the other hand, while organic cotton is often expensive, conventional cotton farming requires enormous amounts of water and depends heavily on pesticides. These realities led me to seek more thoughtful alternatives. That search eventually led to the creation of Avartan. I realised there was very little meaningful exploration of recycled textiles in their pure, undyed form, particularly of recycled cotton and linen. I wanted to create a label that approached this space with sincerity and intention. From the very beginning, we made a conscious decision to avoid polyester and instead focus on biodegradable fabrics kept as close to their natural state as possible.
Tell us about the debut collection.
One World takes cues from nature and its quiet movements. Motifs like spirals, circles, ripples, and waves appear throughout the garments, symbolising continuity, growth, and regeneration. Delicate embroidered lines move across jackets and shirts like flowing water, drifting wind, or roots spreading beneath the earth, giving each piece an organic rhythm and sense of movement. The silhouettes are relaxed, fluid, and genderless, designed to feel effortless while still carrying structure. Tailored jackets are paired with layered shirts, wrapped forms, and wide trousers that move naturally with the body. The palette remains earthy and understated, with shades of soft ivory, faded browns, and weathered neutrals.
Fragments of old Ikat, Patola, and Bandhani textiles are carefully reconstructed into the garments, allowing older craft traditions to continue living through texture, memory, and layered surfaces. The handwork across the collection is subtle and intimate. Techniques like French knots, running stitches, and fine embroidery create quiet surface textures that resemble natural formations, ripples spreading through water, the pathways of roots, or the curves of shells found in nature. A few garments also explore eco-printing and natural dyeing methods. The fabrics and techniques also follow the same philosophy. Recycled cotton, linen, old textile scraps and natural dyeing methods were chosen to create garments that feel honest, raw, and close to the earth.
What are the summer wardrobe must-haves?
I think summer wardrobe must-haves today are all about breathable fabrics, relaxed cuts, and versatile styling. For ethnic wear, easy cotton kurtas in shades like ivory, butter yellow, powder blue, blush pink, and soft earthy browns are working beautifully. Relaxed straight cuts, A-line kurtas, fluid anarkalis, and lightweight Chanderi or mulmul saris feel especially relevant this season. Co-ord kurta sets with loose pants or soft skirts are also staples. In fusion wear, oversized shirts paired with draped skirts, cropped jackets over dresses, layered separates, dhoti pants, and relaxed waistcoats are key pieces.
What are the plans for Avartan?
At Avartan, we are currently focused on continuous research and development around natural and recycled materials, whether through textiles, yarns, surface techniques, or embroideries. We are exploring newer ways of working with biodegradable and recycled materials while pushing design innovation at the same time. A large part of our work right now is also around eco-dyeing and creating natural textures using botanicals, leaves, flowers, and even food waste. We are experimenting with different processes to develop surfaces and finishes that feel organic, unexpected, and closely connected to nature.