Born from colonial kitchens and Indian spice boxes, Anglo-Indian cuisine remains one of the country’s most fascinating culinary legacies. And at the Ministry of Chutneys, the Regimental Mess and Summer Kitchen menu transforms it into something far more exciting than a simple nod to the past. Here, British comfort food arrives with a bold Indian soul, where old Madras club traditions meet vibrant South Indian flavours. By the time we pulled up to lunch with Cliff Richard and Engelbert Humperdinck drifting through the car speakers, the mood for the afternoon had already been perfectly set.
We started on a comforting note with a creamy Anglo-Indian pumpkin soup that beautifully balanced the natural sweetness of yellow pumpkin with warm colonial-era spices. Coconut milk lent it a pleasingly velvety richness, and when paired with garlic bread, it became an unexpectedly addictive combination, as the soup clung richly to every bite.
Next came the Officer’s Bungalow Lamb Chops, arriving beautifully charred on the grill. The lamb was meltingly tender, pulling apart with little resistance, while the marinade carried a gentle smoky heat that lingered rather elegantly. It felt wonderfully old-fashioned in the best sense, like something destined for long dining tables beneath slowly turning ceiling fans.
The Railway Guard Crispy Chicken Fry, inspired by the old railway refreshment rooms of colonial India, on the other hand, was pure fun. Crunchy, pepper-heavy and dangerously addictive, it had that glorious fried texture that crackled loudly with every bite. And beneath the crisp coating sat juicy chicken, well-imbued with spice and flavour.
Since we’re back on the prawn bandwagon after a hiatus, we were rather chuffed when the Anglo-Indian tiger prawns arrived. Marinated in a lively mix of spices, the starter brought a bright, lively lift to the table.
Next up were the Garden and Cheese Vegetable Cutlets, gloriously retro and rather difficult to resist in a very British ‘just one more’ sort of way. A crisp golden breadcrumb coating gave way to a soft, well-seasoned vegetable filling, with molten cheese oozing through the centre for good measure. Comforting, familiar, and just indulgent enough, it felt like the sort of nibble you’d happily find on a well-laid club table.
And so, to the mains, where the Slow-Roasted Baby Lamb Shank Kadai Roast quite simply stole the show. The lamb was beautifully tender, so much so it nearly collapsed into the rich, thick kadai-style masala. Smoky, well-roasted edges met bold spice in perfect harmony, resulting in a dish that was deeply satisfying without ever feeling heavy-handed or overworked.
The Anglo-Indian Meatball Curry was another standout with delicate minced mutton balls gently simmered in a spiced tomato and coconut gravy. Notes of pepper, cumin, coriander, and chilli formed a well-balanced base, while coconut milk smoothed everything into a silky, rounded finish. Traditionally served with yellow coconut rice and devil chutney, it remains one of the most comforting staples of the repertoire.
We were strongly advised to try it with the devil chutney. Despite its rather dramatic name, it is more sweet-sour than fiery. Bright red and tangy, it adds a lively lift to richer dishes and only earns its ‘devil’ label if you are a little too generous with your spoon.
Paired with the Anglo-Indian coconut rice curry, the whole spread came together beautifully, rather like the sort of meal you would happily linger over on a rainy afternoon with absolutely nowhere else to be, or at least nowhere you would rather be.
Desserts rather sealed the matter. We were told these sweets were staples in every Anglo-Indian household and invited to identify them, which felt like a test best enjoyed without pressure. The baked caramel custard was silky smooth with a beautifully bittersweet caramel top, classic and elegantly restrained. The steamed coconut milk pudding was delicate and light, carrying a gentle tropical sweetness that lingered without ever becoming heavy. The heritage bread and butter pudding, however, was pure nostalgia on a plate. Soft custard-soaked bread, plump raisins and a lightly crisp top came together in a comforting finish that felt like it belonged in another era.
Meal for one: 2950+ taxes for brunch, 2456+ taxes for dinner
Until June 15
Sunday brunch - 1 to 3 pm, Dinner everyday - 7:30 to 11 pm
At Radisson Blu Hotel & Suites GRT Chennai, St. Thomas Mount
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