Kolkata is famous for a lot of things – Howrah Bridge, Mishti Doi, Rosogolla, Durga Puja, Ganga Ghat and what not. It is equally famous for the many Gali or lanes that hide within it remnants of a grand past of this city. One of the most famous series of lanes constitutes the Kumartuli or the artisan’s corner. But did you know that not very far from here lies another artisan lane which becomes active especially before the Rath Yatra? This lane is called Rath Gali and it is the point of origin of the wonderful and vibrant mini chariots that fill the marketplace before this festival.
Long before the Snan Yatra takes place, long before people start saying that the smell of Rath Yatra is in the air, the artisans get the wind of it and quietly start their rituals of crafting chariots for the Kolkata market. If you have been impressed with the divine journey of Lord Jagannath, Balabhadra and Subhadra and pulled the strings of a mini chariot back in the days, then probably you have already experienced the vibrancy and effortless beauties that come from Rath Gali.
Artisan families have dedicated their lives through generations to make some of the best handcrafted mini Raths for all the individual and community celebrations in Kolkata. Shortly before the festival commences, you would find local markets filled with rows of colourful chariots and yes many are sourced from here.
In this open air workshop one can see traditional bamboo and cane chariots, wooden raths which resemble temple architecture, large raths (made on order) for community celebrations and much more. Apart from the chariots themselves, they also make chariot décor, crowns, domes, wheels, and more. The entire lane is abuzz with activities from dawn to dusk. And with just two days left for the Festival to begin, the artisans are using full force to get their orders delivered on time.
Walking through the lanes
We took a quick walk down the lane and saw chariots in every stage of completion wherever our heads turned. While some were complete and placed outside for delivery, some were being instantly picked up by walk-ins. Many were applying the last coat of colour on the chariots. Seemingly this year it’s all about yellow, pink, blue and white. Artisans were making finishing touches to their creations by drawing a one there or filling a motif here. What caught our eyes was that not just the experienced artisans but also the younger ones were paying attention and picking up the craft. This heartwarming scene reflects preservation and continuation of a craft that has been handed down through generations. Moreover, in an age of themed pieces, one cannot miss out on customised chariot motifs where one can see artworks reflecting floral designs, Jagannath Puri temple, boat shaped chariots (probably because it’s a monsoon festival) and more. These chariots are mostly pre-ordered but some pieces can be grabbed even if you walk in. Their prices vary from a few thousand for the smaller ones to even Rs 30000 for the larger ones.
If you want to see the artisans in action then drop by soon. And if you still don’t know the address then it is Ramesh Chandra Dutta street. It is easily accessible via car and bus, with girish Park being the nearest metro station.
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