The flax plant (Linum usitatissimum) is among the earliest cultivated plants on Earth. Its earliest signs of cultivation have been found at a prehistoric cave dating from about 30,000 BCE, where flax fibres that were dyed and knotted have been unearthed. Flax has been cultivated for almost 9,000 years, initially in the Fertile Crescent, which spans present-day Syria and Turkey. The plant continues to be the raw material for linen, one of the most ancient and prized fabrics in the world.
The ancient Egyptians depended on the flax plant. They used linen cloth for wrapping mummies in bandages, and for making clothes for their priests. The Phoenicians and Romans later grew flax in the Mediterranean and throughout Europe. In the medieval period, Charlemagne actually promoted the growth of flax on his royal estates.
The process of manufacturing linen is complex and time-consuming. Linens are made from long and strong fibres that occur within the stalk of the flax plant. Being quite strong in nature, linen material is almost two to three times stronger than cotton material. For the best quality of linen fabric, farmers plant the flax crop quite densely.
The close planting allows the crops to grow tall, straight, and not branch off too much. They retain their long fiber within their stalks. Instead of harvesting the crop by cutting it, farmers pull it out from its roots.
Following their harvest, the stems undergo a process known as retting. It is at this stage where nature takes care of the tough job of breaking down the bark of the stem, thanks to rain, humidity, and sunlight. The flax plant grows best in climates that are both moist and cool, with well-drained soil.
France, Belgium, and the Netherlands have been acknowledged as producers of the finest quality flax fibers due to their favourable climatic conditions. Currently, Europe produces about 70% of the total flax produced in the world.
How flax differs from jute and hemp
Flax, jute, and hemp are natural bast fibres. However, their texture, strength, and applications are different. Flax has a soft texture and makes shiny and smooth linen. The length of flax fibres is about 1.5 to 3 feet. Flax fabric is very absorbent, breathable, and gets softer after every wash.
Jute fibre is called the ‘Golden Fibre.’ The texture of jute is coarser than that of flax but is softer than that of hemp. The hemp fibre is extremely strong and durable. Hemp is non-stretchable, shape-retaining, mould-resistant, and also mildew- and UV-resistant.
European linen has been valued for many years due to the remarkable qualities of durability and comfort that make the material special. Being made from the strong, tough fibre taken from the flax plant stalks, linen is characterized by natural breathability and the ability to regulate body temperature, which makes it very comfortable during summer. Linen is also very strong, as its fibres are two to three times stronger compared to cotton fibres.
An easy way of testing linen is using the wrinkle test. Crush a little piece of the fabric into your hand and hold it for a few seconds. Linen fabric tends to form deep and noticeable wrinkles, while blended fabrics tend to have smooth surfaces.