Mekhala is to Nagaland what saris are to most of us. Traditionally worn on special occasions, mekhalas have been gaining popularity among the youth. The need therefore, was to give this traditional attire a makeover and present it as contemporary. That’s exactly what Kintem, a social enterprise and an off-shoot of Wapangla Weaving Unit, is dedicated to. With a mission to take a fresh approach to traditional Naga textile designs while honouring age-old techniques and knowledge, they are working with a network of Naga weavers from across communities. Committed to championing indigenous Naga techniques like loin loom weaving, hand stitching, natural dyeing and handloom weaving, it has launched its debut collection Inti. To know more about the collection, the inspiration and all that it has to offer, we speak to Moala Longchar, who has designed the Inti collection, and is also the founder of Kintem.
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Inti is your debut collection. What is it inspired by, and what does Inti mean?
Inti in the Ao Naga dialect means ‘everyone’ or ‘all inclusive’. We have called the collection Inti because these are contemporary pieces which are not specific to a particular tribe or clan but for everyone and inspired from all tribes. Inti is inspired by motifs and patterns of varying traditional
Naga textiles.
Why did you feel the need to redefine mekhala fashion?
Mekhala always had the image of occasional and traditional wear. However, in the last few years, we have seen a growing trend of young people embracing mekhala fashion and it has been undergoing a transition from being ethnic occasion wear to a convenient everyday style. This shift can also be largely attributed to Nagaland’s influencer Mekhala Mama, whose influence is noteworthy on Instagram. In order to respond to these changing trends and demands, we wanted to develop contemporary pieces that widen mekhala’s appeal, so we introduced the collection that seeks to modernise the mekhala in a sleek and stylish manner while still recognising its traditional value and versatility. Additionally, we felt the need to create an aspirational value for handwoven Naga textiles which would allow people to value the skills and expertise of our traditional weavers.
Tell us more about mekhalas and how different/unique is your offering?
Mekhalas are to us what saris are to most of the mainland states. In fact, it is one of the oldest attire in the history of mankind. Our ancestors used to drape mekhalas as a whole piece of cloth but we style it differently now by wearing it with tops, blouses, tees and shirts depending on our style preference.
We bring in never-seen-before designs using the age-old Naga weaving technique called the loin loom aka bask strap loom. Also, our collection is a perfect blend of traditional and modern designs with fresh colours. In addition, we are mindful about the type of yarns we use because a contemporary Naga mekhala is usually made of synthetic yarns, but we use only natural yarns. Our mekhalas are designed for a special kind of woman who is not afraid to experiment, has an aura and is proud of her personal style. All this while being connected to her roots and supporting the idea of uplifting women artisans and the art of loin loom weaving.
Are there any motifs or designs that are specific to this collection?
The züngijang known as the cucumber seed, tassels, geometrics, zigzag lines, and bands featured in the collection are all traditional Naga patterns that have been cherished for centuries. We have incorporated these elements, thus paying tribute to the rich Naga textile heritage.
What is the colour palette for Inti?
This collection has a very muted palette. We have used a lot of greige (colour between beige and grey), broken whites, black, olive green and powder blue.
What are the fabrics you have chosen for this collection?
Our yarns are all natural cotton yarns that are GOTS certified; azo free dye and we also use eri silk.
Have you already started working on your next edit?
Maybe one can expect some pops of colours and naturally dyed shawls next, and of course more mekhalas.
Rs 4,500 onwards.
Instagram: @kin_tem
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